Admittedly, I slacked off on my blogging duties during the last two...err...three...weeks of the trip. I chalk it up to "living in the moment" like my dad encouraged me to at the start of the trip. I was trying to savor every last minute of the experience instead of sitting in front of a screen. And I didn't have good internet. And I was tired. And the dog ate my iPad. Ok, you get the point. Nevertheless, I want to do some retro-blogging mostly for selfish reasons, so that I can have this blog to look back on and jog my memory of the trip of a lifetime. So here's a play-by-by of the last three weeks of the trip, and once I've had the time to settle down and wrap my brain around all of this, maybe I'll even write up some final thoughts filled with all kinds of inspiration and life-changing realizations.
Arizona Week 2
Sedona to Flagstaff:
Having passed through Sedona before, I knew it would be a scenic ride, albeit a
long one (90 miles). I was a little bummed to be driving the van that day, but
the view through the window wasn’t half bad. As we approached Sedona, dark
clouds loomed beyond the red rocks, quickly engulfing the town and casting an
eerie shadow on the rock formations. By the time I reached the church with the
van and trailer, a full-on storm had commenced, with thick sheets of rain and
hail. What did our group do? They ran outside half naked and proceeded to take a “rain
shower” while hollering like a bunch of bandits. Check out this time lapse video of the storm rolling in.
The ride into Flagstaff the following day was a short 32
miles, but with nearly 3,000 ft of elevation gain on the winding road through
Oak Creek Canyon. We were eager to explore Slide Rock State Park about 8 miles
into the ride, with its natural rock slides and cliff-jumping sites that had
been passed down by trip lore. To
our dismay, the swimming areas were closed off due to a recent forest fire, but
that didn’t stop a handful of crazies from hucking themselves off the cliffs
anyways. The remaining climb was pretty mystical – hairpin switchbacks up a
canyon shrouded in mist that gradually turned into a steady rain as we
approached the summit. The views were so stunning I nearly forgot about the
fact that we’d been climbing for more than 10 miles. Once we reached the top of
the pass and got off our bikes, the cold quickly set into our saturated bodies.
Margaux and I found a space heater in the visitor center to warm up by –
something I didn’t imagine myself doing in Arizona.
Flagstaff was easily one of my favorite towns of the trip,
as it reminded me a lot of Missoula with it’s down-to-earth college town feel
and abundance of outdoor recreation opportunities. I was glad we had a build
day there to allow some extra time to explore the city. Our build day with the
local Habitat chapter split us into several groups to complete various service
projects around town, some building-related and some not. My crew completed our
project at a new home construction site well before lunch, so we checked out
some local shops and then joined forces with another crew in the afternoon to
split firewood. I happily added the wood-splitter (vertical and horizontal
varieties) to my power tool repertoire.
Grand Canyon: Biking to the Grand Canyon was one of
those surreal moments on the trip where I had to take a step back and think,
“Wow, we are really doing this!”. The majority of the people in our group had
never been to the Grand Canyon, so the anticipation was high. From the moment
we arrived at the gateway town to the south rim entrance of the park, we were
surrounded by international tourists, many of whom found our matching Bike
& Build attire picture-worthy. We quickly made a game out of guessing the
different languages and accents we heard around us. Once we settled into the
campground we made our way to the canyon for first views and the mandatory
photo shoot. Holding a bike above your head on the edge of the canyon was more
nerve-wracking than the smile on the my face might suggest. Over the course of
the next two days, I witnessed two sunsets and a sunrise over the canyon and
hiked 6 miles down into the canyon (I try to forget the 6 miles back up it). We
had campfires and star-gazing sessions to cap off our first two nights camping
together and miraculously left the campground without a single noise complaint.
Williams to Parker:
Our “day off” at the Grand Canyon left several of us even more sore than any
day of biking or building. Coupled with the residual effects of dehydration and
an upset stomach, the ride to Williams was not my finest. By the time I
realized I was dehydrated about halfway into our 60 mile ride, there wasn’t
much I could do besides put my head down and pedal. My body felt empty and
weak, and my head was not in the game. Fortunately it was relatively easy
terrain and I had a patient and supportive group to help me finish. When I
arrived at the church I crashed on the couch for a nearly 3-hour nap. I hadn’t
napped like that since the beginning of the trip! Our build day the following
day was similar to Flagstaff, with varying service projects around the town. My
crew completed what I’ll call “cemetery beautification”, which consisted of raking
up pine needles into piles and loading them onto a bulldozer. Not my favorite
build day project, but as always we made the best of it by playing games like
inserting the word “rake” into as many song lyrics as possible (rake me up, before you go-go) and looking up
tombstone names on ancestry.com. An afternoon storm (like clockwork in
Arizona!) cut our day a couple hours short, so I used it as an opportunity to
check out Williams, a classic Route 66 town with all of the touristy shops and
diners you could want. I went for the pie shop that supposedly had better pie
then Pie Town, according to an alum. The generous serving of key lime pie was
creamy and delicious, yes, but nothing beats pie in Pie Town.
The next day took us to Seligman, another town along Route
66 that might not exist if it weren’t for the historic road and the tourists
that travel it. We were rained on much of the day, but fortunately it was a
short ride that allowed us to get to the KOA campground early. After putting
tents up, a group of us took over the campground pool for a rowdy game of
“greasy pig”, which involves a Crisco-covered watermelon and a whole lot of
near-drowning experiences. The predictable afternoon storm was a little gustier
than usual and took down the majority of our poorly constructed tents, soaking
some of our sleeping bags and pads in the process. Our third night of camping
together, and we’d become quite the experts! The two remaining cabin rentals
that were available were quickly snatched up, and we filled up every square
inch of porch, floor and bunk space they had to offer.
I honestly don’t remember much about our ride the next day
into Kingman, other than the fact that it was the site of our first In and Out
Burger. The double cheeseburger, animal style fries, and milkshake must have
clouded my memory.
At first I had to rack my brain to remember anything about
the ride to Needles, AZ, and then I remembered the DONKEYS! How could I forget
about the donkeys? After a steep climb up a narrow, winding two-lane road, we
cruised down the other side and abruptly came to the old mining town of Oatman.
A single strip of western-themed bars, cafes, and souvenir shops – it didn’t
seem any different from the other small towns we’d encountered along Route 66.
Until we saw the donkeys. Wild donkeys, or burros,
roamed the streets and walkways with no regard for any car or human in their
path. With a storm rolling in, Katie D. and I gladly took the opportunity to enjoy
the sites and smells of Oatman. We did it all – toured a mineshaft, talked up
the locals, spotted our first giant cactus, fell asleep at a bar to the tunes
of a local cowboy, and even witnessed the donkey mating ritual performed in the
middle of the street. Shield your eyes, children, it ain’t pretty. It was all
downhill from Oatman, as we rode 15 miles down a teeth-chattering bumpy road
without needing to pedal the whole way.
Needles to Parker was what we call our “surprise century”
day. Due to a road closure, we had to backtrack and tack on an extra 20 miles
to our 80-mile day to get to Parker. The team rallied in a big way to make the
best of the unexpected challenge, with three lunches and a shaded tent village in the middle of
the desert. I was sweeping that day, so I didn’t finish the ride until 6 pm or
so. I live for the long days!
California
Twentynine Palms to
Wrightwood: The words “Twentynine Palms” had been haunting us since we
first saw the number 112 in the mileage column of the trip overview on the
website. We’d been hyping up this day since the start of the trip, both nervous
and eager for our longest ride day of the trip, in the middle of the desert
nonetheless. My most disappointing
moment on the trip was probably a week prior to Twentynine Palms when I
realized it would fall on my van day. I decided to suck it up and be the best damn
support vehicle driver I could be. Aside from one rider who had a massive bug
bite on his rear, every single rider completed the entire desert marathon with
flying colors. Without any services (I mean ANY services) for nearly 80 miles
of the ride, we had to be strategic about our water supply and consumption.
With just enough water to fill up everyone after second lunch, everyone managed to
get to the finish. Hetong and I rolled back in the van with cold
Powerades and Snickers bars to help the last few groups through the remaining
20 miles. I have never been as proud of our group as I was when sweep and the
final group rolled in to the host, completing such a challenging day as a team.
The next day to Victorville was another long one – 92 miles
– and several people were hurting from the previous two days’ centuries. I was
just happy there were services along the route, including a Mexican restaurant
that my crew piled into for lunch. On second thought, loaded burritos on a 92
mile day may have been a bad choice.
Wrightwood was our last big challenge, and then it was
literally all downhill from there (one of our trip mottos). The 34 miles would
seem like nothing after back-to-back-to-back 90+ mile days, but we had some
climbing to do. With such a short day, we were able to take the climb at a
steady pace and stop at our leisure, which included a power nap on a bike
shop’s porch. After about 15 miles of climbing, we were rewarded with a 5 mile
downhill to the campground where we’d spend our last night of camping – and my
favorite. Feuled by hobo packets cooked on the fire and a little wine to keep
warm, we had our final “town hall” meeting followed by some spontaneous group
singing and dancing around the fire. It was Sabo’s birthday, we had finished
the last of our hard ride days, and the end was in sight, so you could say
spirits were high.
Palmdale to Santa
Paula: As promised, the ride to Palmdale was a lot of
downhill and only 37 miles. With Jeff driving the van, Emily, Becca and I used
the opportunity to have a “lady leader” ride and took our time, stopping for
coffee and a flat or two to rehash our summer together. For our final build
day, we worked with a different organization, YouthBuild. On our first night in
Palmdale, the program director, Rossi, gave us an overview about what
YouthBuild does and how it is changing lives by giving young people from
low-income backgrounds an education and job skills while building affordable
housing in their community. We saw the program in action the following day as
we poured a concrete walkway around a new building on the program’s campus,
which included affordable housing units for some of the neediest program
participants. We worked alongside several guys in the program, and I enjoyed
the conversations I had with them about how they got involved with YouthBuild
and what it’s meant for them. Bike & Build has been working on this project
for the last three years, and pouring of the concrete walkway marked the
completion of the project. YouthBuild honored our group with a special dedication
ceremony and plaque in the walkway, surrounded by each of our handprints. While in Palmdale, our team also completed our
decision-making process for the doling out of $45,000 in grant money to
affordable housing organizations and projects along our route and across the
country, including:
Dayton Ohio Habitat
for Humanity in Dayton, OH
BOTHANDS, Inc in Flagstaff, AZ
Yellow Springs Home, Inc in Yellow
Springs, OH
Habitat for Humanity of North Central
Mass in Fitchburg, MA
Pioneer Valley Habitat for Humanity
in Florence, MA
Habitat for Humanity of MidOhio in
Columbus, OH
Amarillo Habitat for Humanity in
Amarillo, TX
Lexington Habitat for Humanity in
Lexington, KY
Our ride to Santa Clarita after Palmdale included the most
elevation gain and loss in a single day of the whole trip – namely because we
spent most of the day on roller coasters at Six Flags Magic Mountain. We had a
short 30-mile day to our host in Santa Clarita, which was only a couple miles
from Six Flags, allowing for maximum riding time. Being at the end of the
season and mid-week, lines were the least of our worries. We hit coaster after
coaster, even lapping several that didn’t have lines at all. If only they had
allowed bikes in the park, we could have hit even more rides.
Another 30-something mile day to Santa Paula, citrus capital
of the world, and we were just one ride away from the finish line. We helped
ourselves to oranges, pomegranates, avocados and more from the fruit stands and
groves along the way. Our final host welcomed us with a personalized street
sign and one last, glorious church potluck.
Santa Barbara: I
remember going to bed after midnight the night before our ride into Santa
Barbara thinking I’d never fall asleep. Not because I was sleeping on a church
pew – I’d grown quite accustomed to that – but because I was so amped for what
the next day would bring. I managed to get a few hours of sleep in, waking up
before my alarm in the same frenzied state I’d fallen asleep in. This was it.
The day I’d dreamed of for nearly 9 months. Today we were going to put on our
jerseys, mount our bikes, and ride to the Pacific Ocean. 75 days before, we had
done the same, only leaving the Atlantic. We had ridden our bikes across the
entire U.S. We decided to make a “leader sandwich”, so Jeff and Emily lead the
pack while Becca and I brought up the rear as sweep. We only had 40 miles to
ride to Santa Barbara, and we made it to the coast in Ventura within the first
15. That first glimpse of the Pacific is a moment that will be forever etched
in my memory. I remember yelling and lifting our bikes up and telling every
stranger who passed by us “WE BIKED HERE”, as if expecting them to acknowledge
or even remotely understand what that meant to us. We excitedly biked along the
coast, stopping reluctantly for a group with a flat…then I got a flat…then Dan
got a flat. Our eagerness to get to the group’s meeting spot couldn’t be
stifled. Finally we rolled into the Santa Barbara cemetery, where our 30 teammates
chanted “SWEEP, SWEEP, SWEEP” as we entered the gates. With our whole crew
accounted for, we regrouped and rode en masse along the streets of Santa
Barbara for the final mile, cheering, chanting and cow-belling the whole way. I
can’t imagine what we looked like to the cars and people we passed. Once we
arrived at the beach, we had to resist the urges to run immediately into the
ocean or into the arms of friends and family so that we could all run into the Pacific as a unified group. With the American flag and a flag from each of the 18
states we passed through, we charged the beach the stormed into the ocean. The
party that ensued was a blur of champagne and ocean spray, hugs and cheers
amidst a wave pool that tried to push us apart every time we came together to
form a huddle. We made it, all 33 of us, from Maine to Santa Barbara.
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| Delicate balancing act on the rim of the Grand Canyon |
More to come on final thoughts and trip
superlatives…
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| View from the top of Oak Creek Canyon |
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| Warming up by the fire with Margaux |
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| Pie in Williams to rival that of Pie Town |
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| First burro sightings in Oatman |
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| Leaving our mark on YouthBuild in Palmdale |
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| Climbing some serious elevation with Jeff at Six Flags |
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| Our welcome sign into Santa Paula |
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| First ocean sighting with Becca |
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| Storming the Pacific |
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| 4,000 miles later and a lot of practice lifting my bike over my head |
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| My two biggest fans made it out for the finish |